The fingerless mittens knitting pattern is a quick project that uses small amount of yarn. I have found that I often have enough yarn left after knitting a pair of socks to knit these.
The pattern was designed for my sister who wanted to knit a pair of fingerless mittens using the lovely Mini Mochi yarn. I used a Trekking sock yarn from my stash in shades of blue, taupe, grey and russet to knit a pair of fingerless mittens for myself. I like using sock yarn to knit fingerless mittens because the wool element gives warmth and comfort while the nylon element adds durability to the mitten. But any pretty sock yarn or 4 ply yarn can be used to knit this pattern successfully.
Knit 2 the same for the pair – there is no difference between right and left hands in this basic fingerless mitten pattern.
- dpns – double pointed needles (I prefer bamboo needles)
- k1 – knit 1 stitch
- p1 – purl 1 stitch
- st st – stocking stitch = knit all stitches when working in the round
- m1 – make 1 stitch
- k – knit
- sts – stitches
- 1 ball of sock yarn or 4 ply yarn (approx 40g)
- set of 2.75mm dpns
- stitch marker
- sewing needle
Using 2.75mm dpns and 4 ply sock yarn cast on 52 sts loosely. I use a slightly larger sized needle, usually 3.25mm, to cast on and then change to the 2.75mm needles before starting the rib.
Shaping for Thumb
- Next round: m1, place marker, k to end of round
- Round 1: k to the marker, slip marker, k to end of round
- Round 2: m1, k to marker, m1, k to end of round
- Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 21 sts between the marker and the start of the round. These are the thumb sts.
- Then k 5 rounds slipping the marker each time you reach it.
- Next: place the 21 thumb sts onto a piece of wast yarn and remove the marker.
- Cast on 2 sts (the easiest way is to make loops onto the needle you have just finished knitting with). The 2 new sts will be part of the thumb. K to the end of the round. (54 sts)
- Next: k 21 rounds (16 rounds if you chose to knit the deeper cuff).
- Work 4 rounds of k1, p1 rib (8 rounds of k1, p1 rib for deeper rib edge).
- Cast off in rib.
- Slip the 21 sts that are on the waste yarn onto 2 dpns.
- Starting in the centre of the 2 cast on sts pick up and k3 sts then k5 sts from the needle – you have 8 sts on needle 1.
- k10 sts onto needle 2.
- k6 sts onto needle 3 and then pick up and k2 sts – you then have 8 sts on needle 3. (26 sts for the thumb)
For thumb with narrow rib:
- k 4 rounds in st st
- Then work 4 rounds of k1, p1 rib
- Cast off in rib.
For thumb with deeper rib:
- k 2 rounds in st st
- Then work 7 rounds of k1, p1, rib
- Cast off in rib.
I used a skein of hand dyed sock yarn by Flamboyance Yarns to knit the deeper cuff version for my sister. Brocade is sumptuously dyed in shades of bramble berry, grey, mauve with a touch of teal, green and rust… in a splendid wool, cashmere and nylon blend.
I hope you enjoy knitting the Fingerless Knitting Pattern. It is a great way of showing off the lovely colours in hand dyed sock yarns and uses a small amount of yarn. You will often have enough yarn left over from knitting a pair of socks to be able to knit a pair of fingerless mittens.
Sew in any loose ends. If you have any little gaps where you have joined the yarn for the thumb you can close these up as you do this.
To Block or Not to Block?
In the main you don’t really need to block your fingerless mittens. However, if you have been knitting a fair isle or stranded pattern you will find that the blocking process smoothes out any irregularities in your knitting. The only time I block basic fingerless mittens is when they are destined to be a present for someone else. I pin out both mittens together so that they are identical.
I hope that you have enjoyed knitting the fingerless mittens. Please leave your comments about knitting this pattern.